Adventure 6: Sailing to Shikine Shima

8/5/08 - 8/8/08

The trip began on a Tuesday, when I rested from the Fujisan climb and made the preparations for the long distance sailing trip. Along with my clothes and sleeping bag, I brought wine, bread and candles for Shabbat. In the afternoon, I met Takesan and his girlfriend, Nanamisan, at the dock and emptied the water out of the small entry boat. That night we slept on the boat together and prepared for an early take off.

We woke to a sunrise that illuminated the sky with gold and dark blue. Mrs. Kyokuta met us at the dock, wished us a good trip, pointed at the sunrise, and remarked that it was a good omen. We motored out of the port and into Tokyo Bay at about 5:00am, as the sun brightened the sky and the water. As is common over the summer, there was no wind, so we relied on the motor for the majority of the day. As we headed south, I took my prayer book and tefillin out and did my best to pray on the deck. I hugged the sail’s support beam and gazed upon the colors and motion of the water, as the ship bumped me in all directions. The skies were clear overhead and graced with white cloud puffs in the distance and the waters were sparkling in the sun. We all took time to take in the beauty.

As we moved out of Tokyo bay the waters changed from sea blue to a deep turquoise. Mr. Kyokuta told me it was called “black current” and flowed throughout the area. The “black current” was stunningly beautiful under the clear sky and housed flying fish that jumped out of the sea and flapped their wings in the air for a distance.　At one point, the fishing line tightened and Nanamisan reeled in a huge golden scaled fish named ｓhira, or mahi mahi by the Hawaiians. As it took its last breaths, the fish’s scales turned silver. Quickly, Takesan cut off the meat on the deck and stored it in the icebox.

In the afternoon, we slowly approached O Shima, a large green volcanic island. After some uncertainty with parking, a kind 82 year-old man in a white bucket hat waved us into a docking slot. Soon after, we were driven to an Onsen, or public bath. When we arrived, we removed our sweaty clothes, squatted down under a low showerhead, cleaned our bodies and descended into the warm waters. As we sat, Mr. Kyokuta recounted that traditionally Japanese men and women would share the same public bath and that such was the practice in his youth. We left the bath rejuvenated, bought some ice cream and hiked back to the boat. That night we ate the shira and slept well.

The next morning we awoke and tarried for some time in the port in search of fuel and water. As we motored out to sea, Nanamisan set the breakfast table and we ate under clear skies. Mid-morning we passed To Shima, an uninhabited volcanic island. I was praying at the time and as I looked up, I was overcome with awe. The island’ｓ steep slopes were smoking and its greenery was glowing in the sun. Glorious Speech!

After lunch we put up the jib sail, turned off the motor and moved with the sounds of the waves in our ears. We caught several fish and stored them in ice. In the late afternoon we arrived at Shikine Shima and set anchor in a cove with light turquoise waters. As fast as I could, I jumped into the cool refreshing waters and explored the area. There were caves, beaches and rock islands covered in coral. The water was so clear that I could see the fish and coral without goggles. I found a secluded spot, with an open view over the western waters and sky, and sat for sunset. It was wondrous, complete with multiple colors in the sky, glowing clouds and a view of Fujisan to the north. That night Takesan took out fish, sliced off the meat and put them on the table raw, as sashimi. They were soft in texture and delicious.

The next morning we awoke, cleared the barnacles off the bottom of the boat and went snorkeling. I saw many species of multicolored tropical fish, an eel, octopus and much coral. After, I sat on the deck, gazing upon the sun-illuminated turquoise waters, grey rocks, blue skies and green trees. It was all very pretty and brought serenity. As the moment passed, I let go of the intensity of the past months of adjusting to Japanese life, and reset my heart for the coming Fall. Soon after, Mr Kyokuta motored us back to the port. I took out my bags and said goodbye to the others. I was to spend Shabbat on the island and the group was to sail back to Tokyo Bay.