The group left the port and I was left alone on Shikine Shima. I had no hotel reservations and about four hours to find a place to stay (before Shabbat). The island had a small village in the center with small guest houses and convenient stores. I walked inland, carrying a map, compass, sleeping bag, change of clothes, and some wine and bread. I asked a clerk at a convenient store and several people on the street where I could find a hotel. They pointed in several directions, but I could not read the signs on the buildings nor find a room to stay. After circumventing for two hours under the hot afternoon sun, I consulted the map and headed north to a campsite.
The campsite was just above a cove with a white sandy beach, steep rock cliffs covered with greenery, turquoise waters and a large tree-covered stone arch. It had a barbecue area, bathrooms and an unobstructed sunset view. I quickly checked in, hid my bags up the hill and ran to a convenient store to get supplies. The day after Shabbat was Tishba B'av, a fast day, so I bought plenty of food. I returned, took a nice swim, a shower and lit the candles for Shabbat. The wind was strong, so I built a fortress around the candles with the bags and kept close until the wax expired. I watched them flicker and glow and covered the top with my hands when strong winds came.
When the lights went out, a new trial emerged. I had no tent or insect repellent and clouds were hovering above. I covered my entire body (except me face) in the sleeping bag, prayed that no rain would come and closed my eyes. Throughout the night, the mosquitoes continuously harassed me, but no rain came. I was able to get a few hours of restless sleep.
The next morning I prayed, ate a big breakfast of cold noodles and jam, bread and salt and biscuits and nuts, hid my bags and took a morning hike along the eastern and southern edges of the island. I explored secluded coves, walking over big white rocks and gazing upon the turquoise water. I made it to a set of natural hot springs, that were right on the water’s edge. I read a sign that said the spring had healing powers and was discovered when someone came upon an injured sea lion bathing in its pools. I put my hands in, and the hot salt water burned in the cuts on my fingers. I headed back to the campsite for lunch and prayer, hid my bags and headed out to the western edge for the afternoon. I traversed through a trail along thick green vegetation and up a hill to the highest points on the island. There were great views of the tall and steep mountain cliffs that met the turquoise waters and the green trees that covered the island. That night I tried to sleep in an unused shower room, but the mosquitoes found me there. I got out, set up my sleeping bag on a plot of sand near the water’s edge and covered my face with a pair of sweatpants. Thankfully, there was no rain again and I got a few hours of good sleep.
The next morning I awoke, took a boat back to the mainland and spent the afternoon fasting at the Tokyo Chabad House. That night I ate a big dinner and returned home. I spent the next day resting and preparing for a four day camping trip in the Southern Japanese Alps.
1 comment:
Hi Mark,
Your mom finally gave me your blog address. I very much enjoyedy our most recent blog entry. I will try my best to catch up with four months of blogs. I hope to be a Mark groupie for the rest of your stay in the Orient.
Be well.
Richard Heimler
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